2017 Deep Woods Estate Chardonnay
From vineyards across Margaret River, mostly Gin Gin clone, whole-bunch pressed, wild-fermented in used French oak, some mlf, matured for 6-8 months. Pale straw-green; wow, this takes off like an Exocet missile with the acidity of the vintage part-reduced by mlf; white flowers on the bouquet seem to reappear, tantalising on the aftertaste. The main game is played out between white-fleshed stone fruit and grapefruit.
95 points - James Halliday's Wine Companion