WILLIAM KELLEY - WINE ADVOCATE
A new bottling from Didier Gimonnet, the 2012 Brut Special Club Oger Grand Cru derives from the lieux-dits Terres de Noël, Brulis, Fondy and Champs Nérons and was disgorged in November 2016. This is still a very youthful, vibrant wine, unfurling in the glass with scents of crushed chalk, lemon oil, waxy citrus rind, white flowers and subtle hints of quince. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with a deep, concentrated and tight-knit core girdled by tangy but ripe acids, displaying a delicate, pinpoint mousse and concluding with a sapid, saline finish. This is a brilliant Champagne, but for my palate, it's still four or five years from really hitting its stride.