High above the Rio Burbia, facing west towards the eastern reach of DO Ribeira Sacra on the other bank, 'As Caborcas' is Telmo Rodriguez' and Pablo Eguzkiza's first single vineyard release of Mencia from Valdeorras. Telmo's aspiration to express through the earth, rather than winemaking is profoundly achieved here - the wine from this granite single vineyard barely seems made at all, but rather an utterance of the soil.
100% Mencia. Simple winemaking in small wooden and stainless steel tanks, and light foudre aging to preserve the "Atlantic" delicacy of this wine of inland Galicia.
It has the roses, velvet, sour cherry and crushed fruit stone/crushed rock perfume on nose and in mouth that can only be Mencia. Deftly textured, mineral, herbal and red-fruited, it's long, open and lively with a lovely sense of space. It's expressive and expansive.
Telmo Rodriguez is one of Spain's pioneer winemakers, advocating native grape varietals tied to the climates and conditions of their sites, and making world-class wines from undiscovered as well as known regions. Perhaps most impressive, while Telmo Rodriguez makes rare and limited wines of astonishing character and quality, his everyday wines have been equally praised, and widely recognized for the tremendous value they offer. Telmo studied viticulture and oenology at the University of Bordeaux and was the winemaker at his family winery in Rioja, Remelluri, and then set off on his own in the early 1990s to discover new vineyards and regions all around Spain. He now makes a range of wines in diverse viticultural areas of Spain, with an emphasis on the following: Telmo was among the first to make significant wines in Toro, Rueda, Valdeorras, Malaga, Alicante and Cigales. In these areas he uses native varietals, often grapes rediscovered such as Godello, Verdejo, Moscatel and Monastrell which do not have wide recognition. With other classically recognized varietals such Tempranillo, Garnacha and Carignan, he works with vines that are indigenous and reflect the character of their particular site. As a result, Telmo has been one of the leaders of the quality revolution with these varietals in up and coming areas such as Toro, as well as in the traditional areas of Rioja and Ribera del Duero.
Great forest berry aromas on this stunning Galicia red that has a dangerous amount of energy and vitality. The fine-grained, dry tannins are already beautifully integrated in this sleek package. Literally breathtakingly long, crisp, mineral finish. Drink or hold.'