Kooyong Single Vineyard Pinot Noir from almost 20 year old vines at the Tuerong estate. Sourced from Miocene sedimentary soils, with iron rich deposits, this has always been the muscular, tannin drenched Pinot of the bunch. Cracking wine, with some more blacker, darker fruits coming through and a lick of sandalwood and cedar.
This single-block wine is sourced from 1.2 ha of gently sloping 19-year-old vines. These vines naturally produce low yields due to a combination of unique orientation, free drainage and high exposure. Together with this, the soil has a far greater prevalence of ironstone pebbles than any other part of the vineyard and delivers wine with great concentration and savoury tannic presence. This wine was fermented in a large-format concrete tank. The ferment, with 10% whole bunches, occurred spontaneously with ambient yeasts and lasted 18 days. Following fermentation, the wine was pressed and racked into French oak barriques (of which 20% were new) and underwent indigenous malolactic fermentation. The wine was racked only once, with a total maturation period of 14 months. It was then bottled without fining or filtration.
Bold and intense, the 2016 Ferrous displays a complex mix of sweet earthy fruit, violet, potpourri and red citrus. The palate is full of power, drive and energy, with the fruit weight balanced by spicy ferrous-like tannin. The intensity of the fruit, the length of the palate and volume of tannin ensure this wine will develop wonderfully over the next 5–8 years. Alcohol 13.5%
Kooyong means 'where the wild fowl gather' and was so named as the property neighbours Devilbend Reserve, a home for many local waterbirds. The Kooyong vineyard itself was first established in 1995, with some 30 hectares planted to a mixture of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. Within the greater vineyard there are five distinct vineyards of which three are planted to Pinot Noir, two predominantly to Chardonnay, and a small section of Pinot Gris and Viognier. The winemaking at Kooyong Estate is taken care of by the extremely talented - and highly regarded - Sandro Mosele, a former geneticist and scientist who has been the Chief Winemaker since 1996. Sandro also makes the wines for the Gjergia families other property, Port Phillip Estate, with both sharing one of the most modern - and spectacular - cellar doors on the Peninsula. The Kooyong operation is unashamedly focused on single vineyard wines, utilising the different slopes, soils and microclimates to produce individual wines of distinction. The range includes Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Viognier, with the wines offered on three different tiers - from the entry level Clonale and Massale wines right through to the 'single vineyard' Ferrous, Haven, Meres, Faultline and Farrago wines.
NED GOODWIN - HALLIDAY'S WINE COMPANION
Always my favourite pinot of the stable for structural reasons alone: the tannins are earthy and ferric, as the name implies. Nothing gritty, though. A magical carpet to carry and obviate the sweetness of the fruit: bing cherry, blood plum and root spice. A welcome respite. Long, highly complex and flush.'
CAMPBELL MATTINSON - THE WINE FRONT
Look forward to these Kooyong single vineyard wines each year. True to the vintage. Less seduction and/or sweetness to the fruit; a greater sense of gravity to the tannin and overall structure. That said it's not an underpowered wine in any way; indeed the flavours charge through the palate at a rate of knots. Dried herbs, roasted nuts, brackeny notes, ripe black cherry. A chicory aspect. Oak here, cedary and smoky, laces its way throughout. From start to finish, the quality is excellent.'