The Meres block is planted entirely to Pinot Noir with the exception of a tiny quarter acre annexe planted to Pinot Gris. Located along the eastern boundary of Kooyong, the name Meres alludes to water bodies – the dams which flank the block on all sides. This gently sloping block is the most exposed of all our Pinot Noir plantings, leading to low vigour and low yields. which produces highly aromatic and perfumed red-fruited Pinot Noir with a structure that, as the vines age, is becoming more robust.
This single-block wine is sourced from 0.9 ha of 19-year-old vines on a gentle north-facing slope. These vines are the most exposed of all our Pinot Noir plantings, leading to low vigour and low yields. The combination of the soil (less loamy topsoil and more clay subsoil than the other blocks), exposure and low vigour produces highly aromatic and perfumed red-fruited Pinot Noir with a structure that, as the vines age, is becoming more robust and serious. This wine was fermented in large-format concrete and stainless-steel tanks. The ferment, with a portion of whole bunches, occurred spontaneously with ambient yeasts and lasted 18 days.
Following fermentation, the wine was pressed and racked into French oak barriques (of which 20% were new) and underwent indigenous malolactic fermentation. The wine was racked only once, with a total maturation period of 14 months. It was then bottled without fining or filtration.
The 2016 Meres has a perfumed bouquet with bright layers of rose petal, raspberry, lavender and subtle cool spice notes. The palate has a long, juicy and sappy core of ripe forest fruits – raspberry and blackberry – that is complemented and neatly surrounded by fine earthy tannin. The power of the fruit-driven palate offers early appeal, however the tannin and structure of the wine will ensure good medium-term cellaring potential.
Kooyong means 'where the wild fowl gather' and was so named as the property neighbours Devilbend Reserve, a home for many local waterbirds. The Kooyong vineyard itself was first established in 1995, with some 30 hectares planted to a mixture of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. Within the greater vineyard there are five distinct vineyards of which three are planted to Pinot Noir, two predominantly to Chardonnay, and a small section of Pinot Gris and Viognier. The winemaking at Kooyong Estate is taken care of by the extremely talented - and highly regarded - Sandro Mosele, a former geneticist and scientist who has been the Chief Winemaker since 1996. Sandro also makes the wines for the Gjergia families other property, Port Phillip Estate, with both sharing one of the most modern - and spectacular - cellar doors on the Peninsula. The Kooyong operation is unashamedly focused on single vineyard wines, utilising the different slopes, soils and microclimates to produce individual wines of distinction. The range includes Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Viognier, with the wines offered on three different tiers - from the entry level Clonale and Massale wines right through to the 'single vineyard' Ferrous, Haven, Meres, Faultline and Farrago wines.
NED GOODWIN - HALLIDAY'S WINE COMPANION
More tapered than the Massale, albeit, still plenty of fruit: cherry pith and satsuma plum meander along a twine of vanillin oak, clove-doused tannins and maritime acidity, expansive and meandering. A diplomatic weave of tension, loosely knit, with abundant fruit.'
CAMPBELL MATTINSON - THE WINE FRONT
There’s plenty of meat on this wine’s bones. It’s a spicy, stewy, chewy pinot noir with macerated cherry, woodsy spice, plum and vanilla flavours rolling through the palate. Weight, power, perfume and shape are all on the positive side of the ledger; finesse perhaps less so. Needless to say, pure drinking enjoyment can easily be found here.'
HUON HOOKE - THE REAL REVIEW
Medium to deep red colour with a good purple tint. The aroma is bright and primary, with ripe, bold dark cherry to black plum notes. The palate is bold and straightforward, ripe and dark cherry-like again, backed up by fine but firm tannins. It's a bit straightforward but a good wine, and is not short on body or density.'