Located in the northwest corner of the Grand Cru slope, Bougros has a notable southeasterly exposure and the steepest gradient of all the Grand Cru vineyards.
Jasper Morris, from Inside Burgundy, gives an evocative description of the Bougros style: "like being smothered in a great big woolly jumper-big fat, soft and round." (Inside Burgundy, 2010).
This speaks to the texture and Morris then goes on to describe the wines from the top of the vineyard - the sector from where this wine hails - as displaying the classical minerality of Chablis.
This wine comes from a long-term lease arrangement whereby Didier and Sylvain Defaix manage the viticulture and the harvest. The wine is fermented and aged in used oak barrels for 18 months before bottling.
“Brilliant winemaking, brilliant wines.”
3 Star Rating (the highest rating awarded to only 9 Chablis producers) A Guide To The Wines of Chablis, Austen Biss (UK)
“The improvement at this estate has been nothing short of phenomenal and as the scores and individual wine reviews suggest, this is a flat out spectacular group of wines and in both vintages. Chablis fans should add the Defaix brothers to their short list of rising stars.”
Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 24
“The quality of the Defaix wines now puts the domaine among the top 10 in Chablis.”
Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 40.
This is exactly the kind of Estate with which we love to work. One that is always searching for better ways of doing things, searching for ways to improve. They have managed their vineyards organically for five years and are now one of the very few certified growers in Chablis. We also now have almost all of the wines (except Grand Cru or Reserve) in Stelvin. As you can see from the notes above and below, Domaine Bernard Defaix are today producing some wonderful Chablis and at remarkably good prices. For the moment we have the rare confluence of very high quality and low prices so don’t miss out. The Estate owns 25 ha of vineyards in Chablis of which half are premier cru and the largest holder of the famed Côte de Lechet. Sylvain and Didier Defaix are the sons of Bernard Defaix and today run the Domaine with Didier’s wife Helene. In the vineyards a totally natural approach is adopted, as indicated above, with the exclusion of herbicides and pesticides. The little fertilizer used is organic compost. The wines are pure, fresh and mineral.
The wines from this Domaine will excite lovers of the ‘classic’ style of Chablis i.e., the racy, tangy, citrus and oyster-shell noted whites. Defaix’s wines show why Chablis can be such a great drink: all purity, freshness and texture with a screwcap keeping it that way. Domaine Bernard Defaix owns 27 ha of vineyards in Chablis of which half are Premier Cru and is the largest holder of the famed Côte de Lechet.
This comes from the higher part of Bougros, next to Les Preuses, so is atypically tangy and fresh for this grand cru. The wood is deftly handled, complementing the struck-match and patisserie notes and its rich, leesy core.
ALLEN MEADOWS - BURGHOUND.COM
A generous application of wood currently fights with the green fruit, oyster shell, quinine and petrol scents. There is notably more volume and power to the relatively big-bodied flavors that possess ample dry extract that coats the mouth on the moderately dry and saline-inflected finish where the wood resurfaces. This is very Bougros in style and while it does avoid rusticity, the wood regimen isn't subtle.