'Few estates in the world can claim to have maintained the highest quality standards uninterrupted for half a century and more. Joh Jos Prüm, the most famous of the many Mosel wine estates bearing the Prüm name, is one estate that can. Since the early 1920’s its wines have been among Germany’s best, Rieslings with the Mosel’s vivacious aroma and racy elegance in its highest form.'
Stuart Pigott, The Wine Atlas of Germany
So what is the secret to the quality of the J.J. Prüm wines? How is it that they differ so much in style and quality from the wines of most other Mosel producers? The answer, as always, lies mostly in the vineyards, backed up by winemaking of the highest order.
Great sites, old vines, the lowest yields, very late harvesting and selection of only the best berries. In the winery the winemaking is as natural as possible with as little intervention as possible. The wines typically need several years to start showing their best and can live and develop for decades.
Generally speaking, the later the harvest, the longer the wine can live, so Spatlese is more age worthy than Kabinett, Auslese more so than Spatlese, and so on.
The Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard has become intrinsically attached to the name of Joh. Jos. Prüm. The Estate owns five hectares of this majestic site. It offers perfect growing conditions for the Riesling grape with its deep, weather-beaten grey slate soil, good water support, extreme steepness of up to 70 % gradient, and its optimal south-south-west exposure. As for the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, Wehlener Sonnenuhr is named after the sundial erected in the vineyard in 1842 by Jodocus Prüm, an ancestor of J.J. Prüm, to give the workers a better time orientation. The wines of the Wehlener Sonnenuhr generally possess excellent structure, show beautiful, ripe aromas and flavours (typically stone fruits, like peach, nectarine, apricot), a fine minerality and great depth and length. Especially after having been aged for some years, the harmony, finesse and expression of these wines is unique.
STEPHEN REINHARDT - WINE ADVOCATE
The 2017 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese is intense and concentrated on the nose, with raisin, grapefruit and even vegetable aromas at the moment. This is highly attractive and noble on both the nose and palate. The wine is lush and dense on the palate but highly elegant, crystalline and fine, revealing a highly stimulating, salty-piquant and intensely aromatic and complex finish. This is an outstanding wine, and it's highly digestible. Tasted in March 2019.
ANNA LEE C. IIJIMA - THE WINE ENTHUSIAST
Whiffs of smoke and crushed earth blow off quickly with aeration to reveal succulent white-peach, yellow-cherry and grapefruit tones. It's unabashedly fresh and forward in fruit, yet anchored by a core of stony mineral tones and zippy light-saber acidity. It's a hedonistic yet impeccably balanced wine that drinks well already but will improve well through 2035, and likely beyond.
TAMLYN CURRIN - JANCISROBINSON.COM
Real struck-match aromatics here! Orchard blossom. And then sugary. Hasn’t come together yet. Lots of acidity. Lots of structure. Like scaffolding around a beautiful building. Hasn’t yet been revealed. 16.5+ / 20 Points.