Based in Piesport, in the heartland of the Mosel Valley, Julian Haart is the young star of German winemaking. His wine education could scarcely have been more illustrious, working with Heymann-Löwenstein for a year, Emrich-Schönleber for two and a half years, Egon Müller for a year, and Klaus Peter Keller for three years.
His goal is to make superlative dry wines, but they are brilliant and elegant across the entire range. He is striving for vineyard expression rather than just fruit; fermentation is allowed to start naturally, and the cellar temperature is kept at a steady 20 deg.C. Terroir shines through!
Julian Haart purchased a 0.25-hectare (0.6 acres) plot of terraced vines in the Goldtröpfchen with Andreas Adam. They were making wine together. By that time, we were obsessed with Adam’s Hofberg bottlings and so we took notice. Adam, however, was just the latest German wine world luminary that Haart had impressed – Julian had already studied with Klaus Peter Keller as well as Reinhard Löwenstein, Werner Schönleber and the legendary Egon Müller. That’s something like learning to draw under da Vinci, Dürer, Ingres and Picasso. It’s pretty serious. Julian eventually went out on his own, with impossibly small parcels of old vines in the Piesporter Schubertslay (ungrafted vines up to 110 years old) and a vertigo-inspiring chunk of the Wintricher Ohligsberg. His first real vintage (2011) was basically still in bottle and all but sold out. The overall style is clearly a type of Mosel – homage to Keller. The wines showcase a glossy, super-pure fruit that shrieks across the palate with a pushing, sharply delineated acidity. Pulverized slate, polished to a fine dust, coats everything. If you can find a bottle, any bottle, watch out.
Slightly funky from the wild ferment. With aeration, this blows off quite quickly and reveals aromas of yellow grapefruit, lemon curd, herbs and licorice. Great concentration and underplayed power here. The tightly wound and dry finish extends towards the distant horizon. Better from 2019, showing great ageing potential. From vines planted in 1910 and very limited production.