92+ points, John Gilman, View from the Cellar: The 2018 Mosel Riesling had also just been bottled, but it too was showing no ill effects from the recent mise. The wine comes at twelve percent octane this year and sports all of one gram of residual sugar, but is impeccably balanced and far from tart or severe in style. The bouquet is beautiful and very elegant, wafting from the glass in a mix of pear, quince, a touch of wild yeasts, a lovely base of slate and a top note of white flowers. On the palate the wine is refined, focused and fullish, with a beautifully tensile profile, lovely mid-palate depth and outstanding focus and grip on the poised and racy finish. This will want at least a few years in the cellar to blossom. 2022-2060."
Julian Haart purchased a 0.25-hectare (0.6 acres) plot of terraced vines in the Goldtröpchen with Andreas Adam. They were making wine together. By that time, we were obsessed with Adam’s Hofberg bottlings and so we took notice. Adam, however, was just the latest German wine world luminary that Haart had impressed – Julian had already studied with Klaus Peter Keller as well as Reinhard Löwenstein, Werner Schönleber and the legendary Egon Müller. That’s something like learning to draw under da Vinci, Dürer, Ingres and Picasso. It’s pretty serious. Julian eventually went out on his own, with impossibly small parcels of old vines in the Piesporter Schubertslay (ungrafted vines up to 110 years old) and a vertigo-inspiring chunk of the Wintricher Ohligsberg. His first real vintage (2011) was basically still in bottle and all but sold out. The overall style is clearly a type of Mosel – homage to Keller. The wines showcase a glossy, super-pure fruit that shrieks across the palate with a pushing, sharply delineated acidity. Pulverized slate, polished to a fine dust, coats everything. If you can find a bottle, any bottle, watch out.