The sources for this bottling can vary from year to year, but one thing stays the same: Verget's Terres de Pierres, is one of the best value white Burgundies around.
This year's version is a blend of sources from parcels located around the commune of Viré-Clessé, in Macon's classic argilo-calcaire soils. As always the wine is crafted from only free-run juice, fermented and then matured on its fine lees (for four months with no bâtonnage) in horizontal stainless steel tanks--designed to maximise interaction between the wine and its lees.
It's packed with fleshy, yellow plum and nectarine fruit and brown spices. The palate is creamy and layered with more fat than the 2017 but with the same cool, powdery freshness and an appealing bitterness on the finish. Serious bang for your (white Burgundy) buck.
He’s been called a “peerless winemaker” by France’s most influential wine critic, Michel Bettane, and a grower whose “tiny domaine is one the world’s pinnacles for Chardonnay.” The winemaker Bettane is referring to is Jean-Marie Guffens and the Domaine is that of Guffens-Heynen, based in the small village of Sologny in Burgundy’s beautiful Mâcon.
The Verget style? Winemaker Jean-Marie Guffens perhaps summed it up best when he told us; "I am Flemish, I love purity." In his watershed book, The New France, (Mitchell Beazley, 2002), Andrew Jefford described the Verget style in the following way; "Don't buy Verget wines looking for the kind of cheese paste, farm straw richness of traditional "funky" white burgundy; these are white wines made with the kind of ravishing purity, compelling sensual austerity more familiar among the greatest winemakers of the Saar, the Ruwer, or Alsace." We could not have put it better ourselves. In other words don't expect to smell the popcorn, smoke, sulphite & lees notes that are typical of so much white Burgundy. In fact, Guffens believes that lees stirring and sulphites are embellishments used in white Burgundy to disguise shortcomings (much as dosage and lees aging are used in Champagne). He therefore minimises his use of sulphur. He wants you to taste the fruit in all its purity.
WILLIAM KELLEY - WINE ADVOCATE
There are 26,000 bottles of the terrific 2018 Mâcon-Villages Terres de Pierres, a pretty wine produced exclusively from older vines and the first press juice. Bursting with notes of citrus oil, spring blossom and green pear, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a delicately textural attack and a precise finish. At 13% alcohol, it's beautifully balanced.